Fish ranks almost alongside lamb as one of my favourite curries. When I was 14 I started tutoring a little girl down the road twice a week. Her family always made sure I ate before I left. They were Bangladeshi, and fish featured regularly on their table.
It was in that home that I fell in love with fish curries — something my mother rarely cooked. Until then I’d only known tilapia, cod and salmon. In that household I discovered so many varieties: different sizes, textures and flavours.
For this recipe I bought a fish called Pabda from a Bangladeshi shop, frozen in a block. I was intrigued, and a little unnerved that it still had its head on. In a mix of hesitation and denial I pushed the block to the back of my freezer, promising myself I’d deal with it later. I could have cooked and eaten it whole, but I wasn’t ready to do that.
A few days later a friend popped over for dinner. I’d planned a simple Pakistani daal chaawal, which felt fine for an everyday meal but not special enough for a food-loving guest. So I dug out the Pabda.
Eventually I cut off the head and cleaned the innards. It wasn’t nearly as horrific as I’d imagined: no fainting, no drama — just the reassuring knowledge that I can handle any fish that comes my way. With that behind me, I proceeded to cook the curry.
‘Bhuna’ describes a technique where ingredients are cooked on high heat until most of the water evaporates, usually with frequent stirring. Stirring fish vigorously would turn it to mush, so I use the term loosely here. I cooked the onions and tomatoes until there was just a little liquid left but the pieces still held their shape, giving texture to the gravy. Then I added the Pabda and let it steam gently until cooked through.
My friend loved the dish, and so did I. We served it with tadka daal and a bright, tangy salad. Pabda has a delicate, soft flesh that comes away from the bones easily, so picking out bones isn’t a chore. It’s excellent with plain basmati rice, and I can imagine it would also pair well with a crispy naan.
Enjoy, with love x
📋 Recipe
Pabda Fish ‘Bhuna’
30 minutes
30 minutes
2
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Ingredients
- ½ lb (250 g) Pabda fish
- 2 onions, sliced thin and long
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
- 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon ground coriander powder
- 1 teaspoon Kashmiri red chilli powder
- ½ teaspoon red chilli flakes
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 0.5 teaspoon turmeric
- 1 green chili, for garnish
- Fresh coriander, for garnish
- 4 tablespoons oil
- Additional oil for frying the fish, as needed
Instructions
- 1. Remove the head: cut at an angle and clean out the innards with a sharp knife.
- 2. Rub the fish well with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon turmeric. Marinate in a colander for at least 30 minutes.
- 3. Fry the fish (shallow or deep) for 1–2 minutes in very hot oil. Set aside.
- 4. In a large skillet, heat 3–4 tablespoons oil. Add the sliced onions and minced garlic and sauté until lightly golden.
- 5. Add the chopped tomatoes, cumin seeds, ground coriander, Kashmiri red chilli powder, red chilli flakes and salt. Sauté on high heat until the tomatoes soften and release some liquid.
- 6. Arrange the fried fish in a single layer over the onion-tomato mix. Spoon some of the masala over each piece. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 5 minutes until the fish is cooked through.
- 7. Garnish with chopped coriander and sliced green chilli. Serve immediately with plain basmati rice or naan.